Hiking in Provence

The expanse of land lying between The Cèze and Ardèche rivers is known locally as Valcèzard. That's Val + Cèz + Ard. This territory is much more than just a fabrication by the local tourism department and has an identity all of its own that is more akin to that of Provence. It lies in Gard Provençal and it must be remembered that governmental administrative regions do not normally reflect historically defined or distinct areas on the ground.

Valcèzard is a tale of two rivers, the forest of Valbonne with its Carthusian monastery lying between the two, and sixteen ‘communes’ with their distinctive hill-top villages and expansive vineyards. To the north, The Ardeche gorge cuts spectacularly into the limestone bedrock as it meanders downstream towards the Rhone Valley. The vertical, and occasionally potholed sides, contrast starkly with the meandering calmness of the river bed below, save for the occasional shallow rapids. To the south, The Cèze is much more topographically diverse, with serrated gorges, followed by expansive and flat floodplain, and abrupt waterfalls before calmness is once again resumed.

In stark contrast to the gentle stretches of the Ceze around Goudargues, where a canal flows down ‘Main Street,’ the river then carves great channels and cavities into the rocks at Sautadet, near Roque sur Cèze, the next village to the east, as its waters disappear into a complex network of galleries and cylindrical pot-holes, formed by the swirling movement of the pebbles. The whole site was probably the result of some unusual uplifting of the limestone bedrock five millions years ago.

What gives Valcèzard its unity are the vines, the lavender fields and, yes, the unmistakable homogeneity of the undulating ‘Garrigues’ of Gard Provençal.

For those who would like to get to know this fascinating area, Walking in Languedoc offers a hike-drive programme, with light walking entitled Hiking Gard-Provence which, due to the gifted nature of the Mediterranean climate, is available all year round. The ‘grande finale’ to the week is a hike to the Pont du Gard, but those who love short hikes punctuated by village ‘rambling’ will find this particular programme very attractive indeed.

You'll need a hire car or your own car to get the most out of this hiking tour and our hiking tour comes with a car included, or you can bring your own for a discount. Valcèzard is in easy reach of Avignon or Nimes airports and getting between walks and villages is via quiet departmental roads that are a joy to drive on. Some of the village highlights are...

Goudargues

The village grew up around the former 12th century Benedictine abbey, after the monks had channelled the waters of the Gordanicus lake. These waters are still omnipresent as one walks the charming streets and alleys of this uncharacteristically low-lying village, with its notable canals, wash room and abbey.

La Roque Sur Cèze

This small medieval village, built on a rocky outcrop, offers a splendid view of the Cascades du Sautadet. Its castle vestiges and chapel rise above the landscape, and remains of the surrounding wall are still visible - the castle was burnt down in 1573 by Huguenots and was abandoned in the late 19th century. The pont Charles Martel from the Middle Ages, crosses the Ceze via eleven arches.

Montclus

Montclus is a tiny village perched on a hill surrounded by small mountains that dominate the Cèze valley. Vestiges from an extant fishing tribe have been found dating their presence to between 8000 to 2000 BC. The medieval village existed before the thirteenth century under its Latin name ‘Castrum Montecluso.’ It boasts some remarkable examples of rural architecture, like the old hospital. The abbey of Mons Serratus was founded In 1263. Twelve years later, the castle was built, but only its square keep remains. Later, the Pont du Moulin bridge was constructed over the Cèze. It is the setting for the Medieval Festival and the occasional French period film.

The location of Valcezard

For those of you who prefer walking at slightly higher altitude, and without the requirement of driving, our
Walking the Cèze Valley programme takes you near to the source of the River and on an unforgettable escape from modern society.